2005 - 2011 Tacoma Fog Light Installation

These notes are an account of what I did. I am sharing them in case someone is looking to do this too and can benefit from my install. This is not intended to be a definitive install guide. Do not attempt this if you are not comfortable doing basic wiring – hire a pro.

Before starting I collected the following stuff:

• 14 gauge primary wire (10 feet each of black and red)
• assorted 14-16 gauge crimp connectors (blue)
• crimper, wire cutters, electrical tape, etc.

1 Tacoma fog light kit from Toyotapart.com. It ccomes with the lamp housings (2), bulbs (2), 30 amp relay, dash switch, connectors for all and repair wires. This is the $416.91 kit.

Fog Light Kit

The light housings are very simple. Nothing gets removed – it just pops into place as is. The white nut at the bottom is used to adjust the angle (attitude) of the lamps after installed. These seem like they could break if too much force is used during install.

Fog Light Housing

To remove the dummy inserts, I crawled under the front bumper, looked up, and found that by simply pressing the plastic tab, the whole thing popped out. There is a tab on both sides, but I found that popping one was enough to free the insert.This picture was taken from below the front bumper.

Dummy Insert

The dummy inserts pop out easily. It was pretty obvious how the fog lamp housing had to go in once the insert was out of the way.

Dummy Insert Out

These are my dummy inserts removed. Nice cup holder or change bin?

Dummy Inserts Out

The fog light housing just slides in where the dummy insert came out. The bottom post goes into the molded hole in the bumper. There is a lot of plastic here, so I was careful to not force anything too hard.

The Housings Being Installed

One light housing in. Actually this one was still loose. I made sure the two side posts and rear anchor point were better secured after taking this picture.

One Housing Installed

Now both housings are in place.

Both Are Installed

For a snug, secure fit, I made sure the side posts and rear anchor were completely seated. It would bounce around or fall out if not secured properly. This picture was taken from below the front bumper looking up.

I had to move the adjuster nearly all the way out to get a solid connection in the hole. The white wheel is easy to access from below the truck, so I figured I would adjust it back later (though no real adjustment was needed in the end).

Second Adjuster

I ran my wire harness under the front bumper and secured it in a couple of places. This shot is in about the middle of the bumper looking up. You can see the horns on the upper left of the picture.

Just a note – the wire harness from symsales (eBay) was too short to connect the lamps. I had to add an extra foot or so of wire. It looked to me like that harness was for adding lights much closer together than the 05-06 Taco.

Harness Routing

This picture just shows the bulb and bulb connector in place on the harness.

Bulb and Connectors

The 30 amp relay has the schematic printed on its cover. I repeated some of it here and added the color of the wires that corresponded on the connector from Toyotaparts.com. I don’t know if they arrange the wires the same all the time, so the safest bet is to make sure the pin numbers are the same. I had to remove the wire connector to see the pin numbers printed on the “bottom” side of the relay.

Pin 87a is not needed. Must be they use the same relay for DRL’s or something like that.

Relay Wiring Diagram

I just attached the relay and fuse to the major wire trunk running along the right side (battery side). I zip tied the relay above and below and tried to make it as vertical as possible to avoid collecting water/moisture.

The lower part of the big wire trunk passes through the firewall into the cab. I followed this and found a cool “extra” wire pass through that worked perfect for the fog light switch (next page for pass through).

Firewall Wiring Pass Through

Here is the extra wire pass through to the cab through the firewall. I had to cut the tip off which then exposed the tube. There is carpeting on the other side, so I used a small Phillips head screw driver to break through first before running the wire. There are lots of wires on the other side, so I was careful to not go too crazy pushing through. After I pushed the wire through and connected the switch (described later) I came back here and put a zip tie around the rubber piece (with the wires inside) to keep water and stuff from passing from the engine compartment into the cab.

Extra Wire Pass Through

Here are my switch wires passing through the firewall into the cab. They pop through on the inside just above the left foot rest.

Switch Wire

The wires popped out about where the arrow is. I ran them under the dash and through to one of the switch knock-outs. I popped out the knock-out with just a little pressure from behind. I chose the one closest to the steering wheel, but either would have worked fine.

Here is a side shot of the switch used in the kit.


Swithc Wiring Diagram

I decided to tie the switch illumination into the relay-in power (1 and 3). Now the switch is illuminated when my parking lights are on regardless of whether the fogs are on or not. I figured it would be a quick way for me to know if my fogs are available – no parking lights, no fogs. The switch itself makes it pretty obvious when the fogs are on, so I didn’t want to just have the switch illuminate with the fogs. And I didn’t feel the need to illuminate the switch with the dash, though that was certainly an option. This picture shows my 1 and 3 joined, so now I have three wires left to connect.

Illumination Wiring

After connecting the switch wires, I gently pulled the excess back into the engine compartment . I neatened everything up with wire ties afterward. Here the switch is installed into the factory switch location. Everything on the cab side is now neatly in place. Extra wire was pulled back into the engine compartment and all wires were wire-tied to existing wire harnesses under the dash. I had to be especially careful to keep the wires away from my clutch pedal. Looks pretty damn good if I do say so myself!


Then I went back into the engine compartment and cleaned up the wiring. Mostly zip-tied any loose wires to make it look nice.

Engine Compartment

One of the last things I did was connect the power wiring. I hooked my ground wires under the bolt holding the fuse box to the side. There is a major ground wire just a few inches in front of this, but I decided to stay away from any factory wiring. I didn’t want to give my dealer any excuses to void my warranty if a chip blew out. In fact, this fog light addition is almost completely independent of factory wiring except for the tap off the parking lamp and there are no chips around that connection.

More Wiring

I disconnected the driver’s side parking lamp connector and tapped my relay to it using a pretty standard crimp-style 14 gauge wire tap/splice. The green wire for me was positive, verified by voltmeter before cutting in.

Connecting the Lights

Then I just plugged the parking lamp connector back into its place.

Parking Light

The last thing I did was connect to the positive terminal of the battery. I loosened the nut behind the terminal and slide the spade connector under. I had to widen the gap on the space connector first with a pair of pliers.

I then pulled the red cover back into place and that was about it. Testing showed that everything worked fine.

Hooking up the Battery

Here are th new fogs….

Fogs Installed

Here is the fog lights on at night.

Fogs at Night

Here is a wiring diagram: And here is a stock wiring diagram:

Diagram 1

Diagram 2